Marrakesh December 2005
The prospect of spending a few days in Morocco had sustained us through the early part of the English winter. Commuting in the dark and a cold snap at the end of November were made more bearable by keeping an eye on the weather in North Africa: 15 to 20 degrees and plenty of sunshine in Marrakech! This article describes where you can find some good photo opportunities in this city and I hope it will give you some useful tips in case you are tempted to go there yourself (which I heartily recommend!)
Although we were not going to arrive by train I loaded up the iPod with a certain Crosby, Stills, Nash track from 1969. The other important bit of luggage was of course the photo bag. One camera (Canon 10D), three Canon lenses (16-35mm f2.8 L, 35-80mm f4-5.6, 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 L IS), and 4Gb worth of Compact Flash would have to suffice.
This would prove to be one of the occasions where it became clear to me how good it would be to have two camera bodies. Not so much to have a spare body in case of breakdown, but to be able to avoid having to change lenses. There are so many different subjects for photography in a city like Marrakech that it is hard to limit yourself to just one lens. Architecture, big open spaces like the Jam el Fna Square (of which more later), city scapes from a high vantage point and street scenes all require a wide angle lens, especially if you have to deal with the crop factor of a smaller chip like the one in the 10D. Portraits, animals, shop details, benefit from using a tele lens. Especially candid street portraits are virtually impossible with a 100mm lens, or longer. Numerous times I found myself having to change lenses and sometimes missing an opportunity because of it. A slightly cheaper alternative could be the new(ish) Canon EF 24-105mm f4 L IS lens, but a retail price of around £850 and the flare issue are making me think a bit longer about that purchase.
I recently bought the 16-35mm lens and this was going to be its first serious outing. It got some good reviews and I found the one on The Luminous Landscape site, comparing it with the 17-35mm lens especially useful (http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/lenses/16-35.shtml). All the good news about this lens was confirmed: image quality is outstanding, auto focus is quick and it performs especially well in low light conditions. I was a bit concerned about the weight (600 g), but it handles very nicely, is well balanced and the weight was never a problem.
Marrakech is within easy reach and a suitable destination for a weekend break from most European airports with direct flights. We arrived at our hotel early in the afternoon with enough time and energy for a first exploration. I would strongly recommend anybody visiting Marrakech to find a hotel in the old part of town, the Medina. In Moroccan cities some big town houses, called Riads, have been converted into hotels. They retain the character of the place, offer good value for money and the more upmarket ones are as good, or better than 4 or 5 star hotels. You can stay in one of the big hotels in the new part of town, but then you could be anywhere. To savour as much as possible of the local culture and atmosphere a Riad is a much better option. We were very happy with our accommodation: Riad Lydines has comfortable rooms arranged around the central courtyard, as shown in the picture to the right. The staff are excellent making you feel really welcome. The riad has a delicious breakfast and good facilities. It is conveniently located in the Kashbah, within 15 minutes walking of the main square. To have a good map of the town is essential as it is easy to get lost in the maze of small streets and alleys.
The hub of daily life in the city is the Jam el Fna Square, or 'La Place' (French is spoken widely.) This place offers many photographic opportunities, both during the day and in the evening. Many street performers earn a living here: acrobats, soothsayers, snake charmers, magicians, dancers, and musicians. Some of what they do is confusing and incomprehensible if, like me, you don’t understand the language. Even then the spectacle is fascinating and gives you the chance to shoot some great pictures. One group of men ply a trade that is indicative of how different this culture is to what many of us are used to. They are the storytellers. In a society where illiteracy is high (approximately 50%) and not everybody has a television they provide entertainment for many. They sit down, gather a crowd around them and entertain them with stories. I just wished I could understand them. Another very important service available on the square is the reading and writing of official documents for those who cannot do that themselves. The people offering this service use big umbrellas to give them and their clients some privacy.
There is one area of town which affords some great scenes, but it is not very suitable for those of us with a refined, delicate sense of smell. I am referring to the tanneries, where the skins of goats, cows and camels are turned into leather. This process is performed by soaking the skins in different stone tanks containing, amongst other things, urine and pigeon droppings. The men working in these conditions often develop severe arthritis before they are 45. You can walk into these places and take pictures on your own. Alternatively, you can take up the offer of a guide who, for a small fee, will show you around and explain the process, providing access to some of the more inaccessible photo opportunities. He will also be able to take you to a higher vantage point that will allow you to look down upon, and into, the tanks. The fee, like most things in Marrakech, is negotiable, but 40-50 Dirhams (about £3 at the time of writing) will do.
A much more soothing experience, also in a great place to take pictures, is a visit to the Majorelle Gardens. They were designed in 1924 by the French artist Jacques Majorelle. He came to Morocco, which was then occupied by the French, because of health problems and created an oasis of peace and quiet on the outskirts of the noisy, chaotic old town. In 1980 the gardens and its house were bought by the French designer Yves Saint-Laurent, who continued to allow the public to visit. The cacti and palm trees combine photogenically with the striking cobalt blue of the house. Using a polarisation filter is essential, but take care not to overdo it, as I did on a few occasions. You can easily turn the blue sky so dark that you lose some of the nice contrast with the greenery.
After the gardens you should be up for some more busy chaos and you'll find plenty of that in the Souk. This is an enormous maze of little streets and alleys and is the commercial heart of the city. The price of every item, whether it is an old Berber necklace with amber and coral that starts out at 8,000 Dirham or a leather wallet at 30 Dirham, is negotiable. Start by offering half or less and end up at about 60% of the asking price. Photography can be difficult here as it can be very dark, with rays of bright sunshine coming through. Some good portrait can be shot after you have bought something. Be sure to ask before pointing you camera though, as many Moroccans do not want their picture taken. The textile shops, and the area where they dye shawls and wool, are also good places to for photography.
Of course all the streets and its people, cats, doors, and donkeys make great subjects for photography, but the last specific place in Marrakech I want to mention are the ruins of the el Badia palace. It was built between 1578 and 1603 with the richest materials: gold, onyx and Italian marble. There is very little shade and in summer this place must be unbearably hot. None of the splendour remains, there are just a few walls, but on top of them you will find dozens of storks. From the top of the walls you have a good view of the rooftops of Marrakech with its many mosques and incongruous satellite dishes.
You can easily spend four or five days in Marrakech without running out of things to photograph, but it is also a good base for many day trips. We organised a trip across the High Atlas mountains to a place called Ouarzazate in the Sahara Desert. The journey takes you across the Tizi n'Tchika pass. At a height of 2,200 meters the snow often closes this road and we saw some snowploughs parked and ready for action. Ouarzazate is host to some film studios and has been used in films like Lawrence of Arabia and Sheltering Sky. The Kasbah of Taourirte is an interesting place; it used to be the palace of the local nobleman. A guide can show around some of the rooms which have been restored and give an idea of what life was like in those days. Some of the other worthwhile day trips are: the Ourika Valley with its picturesque villages and magnificent waterfalls and Essouria on the coast with its houses painted white instead of red in Marrakech.
All in all this was an excellent trip and I would certainly recommend a visit. Just a long weekend to Marrakech is great if you live within 3-4 hours flying, but a longer stay in Morocco could easily be filled with things to do and see if you have to come from further away.
To view my photos of this trip please visit the galleries page and click on the Moroccan flag.
